Pip Forrester reports on Fino at Gastronomy Symposium

FINO AT THE
SYMPOSIUM OF GASTRONOMY


The twenty fifth anniversary of the Symposium of Gastronomy was recently held in Adelaide under the theme of ‘The Economy’. The climax to the event was a six course dinner presented by Sharon Romeo and David Swain from Fino restaurant in Willunga - an inspired choice by the Symposium’s organisers.

Fino is a benchmark for regional restaurants in Australia and how to operate a food business in the Slow Food manner. Their menu is crafted around produce that is locally sourced and in season and showcases. It is also their policy to employ locals. The menu and wine selections for the night reflected all that is wonderful about a small restaurant owned and run by two passionate professionals who seek out the best seasonal South Australian produce and use time honoured culinary and hospitality techniques to deliver the diner an exquisite experience.

The challenge for Sharon and David to present their very discerning guests the experience they endeavour to serve their restaurant guests in what was, in effect, a corporate environment, was immense. Fino’s philosophy is very much founded on the same principles that the Slow Food movement espouses - produce from sustainable and local farmers and the use of traditional cooking techniques, which allows the ingredients to sing. The challenge was met. After several days of academic debate, the diners received a meal that reflected all that can be achieved by employing Slow Food principles.

The dinner commenced with supremely fresh tuna, very lightly treated and presented as an Escabeche and matched in a classical fashion with a NV Seppeltsfield ‘Flora” Sherry from the Barossa Valley. The second course featured one of South Australia’s most revered products, Woodside’s goat curd, which was baked and combined with just picked peas from up the road, lemons preserved at the restaurant and locally grown shallots - a stunning combination of flavours and textures. The freshness and length of palette of the ‘First Drop’ Arneis from the Adelaide Hills that Sharon matched with this dish was a good partner to a dish that was fresh and crunchy but also savoury.

David’s passion and talent shone through in the next dish - fast becoming his signature dish - Wild Coorong Rabbit and Boccalaro Sausage, Poached Loin and Confit Rabbit Salad with Braised Leeks and Mushrooms. The amazing complexity and variety in this dish gave Sharon the opportunity to showcase a wine which reflects the new direction being taken with grape varieties and wine styles by the upcoming winemakers in McLaren Vale - the 2008 Samuel’s Gorge Tempranillo.

The next course again presented David the opportunity to feature a fabulous product - Mt. Compass Veal - partnered with his beautifully crafted Gnocchi, made from Goose Eggs supplied by a customer of the restaurant. This time the dish was matched with a 2007 Clarendon Hills ‘Liandra’ Mouvèdre - again a clever choice.
One of the exciting developments in the Australian culinary world in the last couple of decades has been the development of our own artisan cheese industry. The cheese David and Sharon chose to serve is an example of a relatively new and exciting cheese maker from the Hindmarsh Valley in the Fleurieu Peninsula. Denise Riches is making some very interesting and innovative cheeses - one of which is the Hindmarsh Valley Squires Washed Rind, served at the dinner.

Cheese is notoriously difficult to match with wine. The acid, fat and sometimes ’funky’ characters that cheeses can have do damage to many wines. However, Grenache, with its savoury and earthy characters, was a good partner for the dinners’ washed rind cheese and also a good weight for this point in the meal.

The finale was deliciously simple - a Vanilla Bean Ice Cream Terrine using the beautifully creamy jersey milk from the Fleurieu Peninsula Milk Company with local strawberries providing a fresh finish to the meal. The 2008 Joseph ‘La Maglia’ Botrytis Riesling Traminer provided the perfect acid and sugar levels, ensuring that both the dessert and wine looked good.

The meal created by Fino reflects the very best of what can be achieved when ingredients are selected with thought and an eye for quality and freshness and prepared using time honoured culinary techniques. The Symposium, famous for some very thought provoking extravaganzas in the past, was well served by this meal that was very much in keeping with ‘the economy’ theme and the principles and philosophy of the Slow Food Movement. Congratulations to all those involved.