Thursday, December 10, 2009

Pip Forrester reports on Fino at Gastronomy Symposium

FINO AT THE
SYMPOSIUM OF GASTRONOMY


The twenty fifth anniversary of the Symposium of Gastronomy was recently held in Adelaide under the theme of ‘The Economy’. The climax to the event was a six course dinner presented by Sharon Romeo and David Swain from Fino restaurant in Willunga - an inspired choice by the Symposium’s organisers.

Fino is a benchmark for regional restaurants in Australia and how to operate a food business in the Slow Food manner. Their menu is crafted around produce that is locally sourced and in season and showcases. It is also their policy to employ locals. The menu and wine selections for the night reflected all that is wonderful about a small restaurant owned and run by two passionate professionals who seek out the best seasonal South Australian produce and use time honoured culinary and hospitality techniques to deliver the diner an exquisite experience.

The challenge for Sharon and David to present their very discerning guests the experience they endeavour to serve their restaurant guests in what was, in effect, a corporate environment, was immense. Fino’s philosophy is very much founded on the same principles that the Slow Food movement espouses - produce from sustainable and local farmers and the use of traditional cooking techniques, which allows the ingredients to sing. The challenge was met. After several days of academic debate, the diners received a meal that reflected all that can be achieved by employing Slow Food principles.

The dinner commenced with supremely fresh tuna, very lightly treated and presented as an Escabeche and matched in a classical fashion with a NV Seppeltsfield ‘Flora” Sherry from the Barossa Valley. The second course featured one of South Australia’s most revered products, Woodside’s goat curd, which was baked and combined with just picked peas from up the road, lemons preserved at the restaurant and locally grown shallots - a stunning combination of flavours and textures. The freshness and length of palette of the ‘First Drop’ Arneis from the Adelaide Hills that Sharon matched with this dish was a good partner to a dish that was fresh and crunchy but also savoury.

David’s passion and talent shone through in the next dish - fast becoming his signature dish - Wild Coorong Rabbit and Boccalaro Sausage, Poached Loin and Confit Rabbit Salad with Braised Leeks and Mushrooms. The amazing complexity and variety in this dish gave Sharon the opportunity to showcase a wine which reflects the new direction being taken with grape varieties and wine styles by the upcoming winemakers in McLaren Vale - the 2008 Samuel’s Gorge Tempranillo.

The next course again presented David the opportunity to feature a fabulous product - Mt. Compass Veal - partnered with his beautifully crafted Gnocchi, made from Goose Eggs supplied by a customer of the restaurant. This time the dish was matched with a 2007 Clarendon Hills ‘Liandra’ Mouvèdre - again a clever choice.
One of the exciting developments in the Australian culinary world in the last couple of decades has been the development of our own artisan cheese industry. The cheese David and Sharon chose to serve is an example of a relatively new and exciting cheese maker from the Hindmarsh Valley in the Fleurieu Peninsula. Denise Riches is making some very interesting and innovative cheeses - one of which is the Hindmarsh Valley Squires Washed Rind, served at the dinner.

Cheese is notoriously difficult to match with wine. The acid, fat and sometimes ’funky’ characters that cheeses can have do damage to many wines. However, Grenache, with its savoury and earthy characters, was a good partner for the dinners’ washed rind cheese and also a good weight for this point in the meal.

The finale was deliciously simple - a Vanilla Bean Ice Cream Terrine using the beautifully creamy jersey milk from the Fleurieu Peninsula Milk Company with local strawberries providing a fresh finish to the meal. The 2008 Joseph ‘La Maglia’ Botrytis Riesling Traminer provided the perfect acid and sugar levels, ensuring that both the dessert and wine looked good.

The meal created by Fino reflects the very best of what can be achieved when ingredients are selected with thought and an eye for quality and freshness and prepared using time honoured culinary techniques. The Symposium, famous for some very thought provoking extravaganzas in the past, was well served by this meal that was very much in keeping with ‘the economy’ theme and the principles and philosophy of the Slow Food Movement. Congratulations to all those involved.

Friday, September 18, 2009

Willunga Almonds by Jude McBain


NOTES ON BLUE COTTAGE ALMONDS VARIETIES by Jude McBain

In General
The 3 varieties of almonds grown by Blue Cottage Almonds have all been determined to be actual separate varieties by genetic mapping undertaken by Waite Institute, Adelaide University. They originate from European hardshell varieties rather than the smaller American papershell varieties which are most commonly grown and sold here. These varieties make up about 1% of the total almond plantings in Australia. It would be a tragedy if these varieties were lost – they are part of the genetic bio-diversity of our district – not to mention the history!

Johnston Almonds
Johnston almonds were originally grown as a variety by the Johnstons of Pirramimma Wines fame. Like many McLaren Vale vignerons the Johnston family were originally almond growers in the district in the early part of last century.

Johnstons have a very hard cream coloured shell with a large coarse almost corrugated brownskin kernel. Because of the skin the almond has great flavour especially when roasted or used in baking. The kernels also blanch very readily and the blanched kernel divides easily into the classic almond halves so beloved of cooks to put on top of Christmas cakes.

Somerton Almonds
The story goes that this almond was originally discovered by a grower called Eric Lacey whose family now have very substantial almond orchards in the Riverland. Eric had a prolific tree in his then Somerton Park orchard that seemed to be different from the rest of the row. He went into Charlesworth Nuts –an Adelaide institution – with a few kernels to see what the buyer thought. Excellent was the response so Eric began growing more of them!

Somerton almonds are quite smooth skinned and have a very creamy texture and a delicious flavour. They are our most popular almond and we sell most of them as natural almonds to people who regularly eat raw almonds as part of their diet.

Parkinson Almonds

This is a very recent addition to the known local Willunga varieties and was discovered in much the same way as the Somerton – growing by itself in the Parkinson’s orchard! It is a prolific tree – hard to establish but worth the effort.

Parkinson almonds have a very hard almost white shell. The kernels are long and cylindrical in shape with a sweet milky kernel. They are wonderful for confectionery almonds – sugared, cinnamon etc but also great just raw.

Monday, June 15, 2009

Why Blog?

Why a BLOG? Just another way of sharing information. If you would like to contribute to the Blog email one of our Committee Members (our first name followed by slowfoodfp.com, eg: I'm tori@slowfoodfp.com) and we'll post on line ...Slow thoughts, projects, events, books.

Around the Committee table and at our Member events we often share 'what motivates you to be a Member of Slow Food Fleurieu Peninsula?' and every answer is inspiring .. now we have a space to share this inspiration so email or 'add comment' to any of the entries. See you at the next gathering, Tori

Butchery

WINTER PORK BUTCHERY and COOKING DEMONSTRATION at CHAPEL HILL RETREAT
Chapel Hill Winery Gourmet Retreat, Chaffey’s Road McLaren Vale
Sunday 8 August, 10.30am to 1.30pm
Join Ellis Butchers’ Ian Shaw for a butchery demonstration, Ian will break up a pig and explain cuts while Chapel Hill Gourmet Retreat Chef Peter Hogg creates dishes using the appropriate technique for each cut. Includes discussion on pork, tastings of Chapel Hill Wine matched to Lunch.
Price: $90
Further information and Bookings: info@chapelhillwine.com

Visit A Fleurieu Farmers Market

Slow Food Fleurieu Peninsula recommends a visit to one of our Farmers Markets for a taste of Slow Food. At Willunga Farmers Market and Victor Harbor Farmers Markets you will meet the growers and makers of the region, learn more about what we grow, our farmers, their produce, skills, forgotten foods, heirloom vegetables and the local flavours of the Fleurieu. Take the time to meet and give thanks to the locals that set up their stalls week after week, every Saturday, rain, hail or shine so that we can enjoy the pleasures of seasonal eating.

One of the key projects for Slow Food Fleurieu Peninsula is gathering our Slow Food stories for the creation of a regional “Snail Trail”. Some of our Slow Food stories are about Almonds, Olives, Wine, Cheese and Cockles.

Almonds are an important part of the region’s food culture especially in Willunga where many of the almonds available at the Markets are grown. The 3 varieties of almonds grown by Blue Cottage Almonds (Parkinson, Johnston and Somerton) have all been determined to be actual separate varieties by genetic mapping undertaken by Waite Institute, Adelaide University. They originate from European hardshell varieties rather than the smaller American papershell varieties which are most commonly grown and sold in South Australia. These varieties make up about 1% of the total almond plantings in Australia. It would be a tragedy if these varieties were lost – they are part of the genetic bio-diversity of our district – not to mention the history!

The Fleurieu has a reputation for producing premium wine with the highest concentration of wineries in the McLaren Vale region where you’ll still find many family-owned small producers hand crafting wine using traditional methods. The Fleurieu is known for the best quality Olive oil, and is growing in reputation for pickled olives. Immanuel Giakoumis is considered by some to be the father of Olive pickling in the region as the Giakoumis recipe is behind many of the award winning olives found in the region. There are as many methods for pickling as there are olive growers in the region with the most popular being salt cured black Kalamata olives. Look out for sun dried and the small Koroneiki olives. Green Verdale and Frantoio are also popular varieties pickled locally.

Coast and waterways are at the heart of Fleurieu life and many of the popular local dishes include seafood. Local chefs are creating regional special dishes showcasing the local catch such as squid and yabbies. Cockles foraged by traditional indigenous groups are still harvested at Goolwa, chefs have started cooking with cockles reviving tradition with our regional menus. We suggest visiting some of the Fleurieu restaurants and ask for their regional dish.

Saturday, June 13, 2009

Welcome to the Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia

Welcome to the Slow Food movement blog for the Fleurieu Peninsula convivium. The Fleurieu Peninsula is a beautiful region of South Australia that is located an easy 40 minutes drive South of Adelaide.

The Fleurieu Peninsula has always been synonymous with farming and food production and due to settlement by a variety of different nationalities has evolved a food and wine culture that has benefited from the many generations of knowledge brought from across the world and particularly Southern Europe.

It is a region that celebrates quality food and wine grown and made by passionate and dedicated people. The Fleurieu Peninsula Slow Food convivium aims to re-connect and re-educate people with what they consume, how they consume it and re-ignite the excitement of those shared experiences with friends and family
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